Aging Tastefully | Rustic Eatery and Tavern
Story by Tracy Nicholson
Photography by Dan Francis Photography + Anna Weisenburger
Just over the Main Avenue bridge in Moorhead, the 1889 Kassenborg Block building is aging tastefully, thanks to the first-floor refresh of Rustica Eatery & Tavern by Paige Breidenbach of Mosaic Interior Design. To get the full European-American experience, we made a reservation with co-owners, Executive Chef Micah Leitel and Operator Anna Weisenburger. From historic brick and local art to woodfired pizzas and seasonally curated cuisine, Rustica is a date-night destination by design.
A PERFECT PAIRING
In 2019, Micah Leitel and Anna Weisenburger stepped into the big chef shoes of Eric and Sara Watson, taking over ownership of the beloved Rustica Eatery & Tavern in Moorhead, MN. Micah, who was born in Bismarck and grew up in Kansas, considers Moorhead his hometown. Before ownership, he spent 16 years “getting whipped into shape by lunch ladies” in assisted living, then four years as a chef at Rustica, where he started from the bottom — learning every role alongside one of the region's most esteemed chefs. Anna moved to Fargo-Moorhead in 2015 from the Valley City and Jamestown area. She had been working in restaurants since the age of 14, starting with dishes before learning to host and eventually taking on the role of general manager at Rustica. "I had always wanted to work for the Watsons," said Weisenburger.
Chef Micah shared her admiration. “I didn't think twice about buying the restaurant, but I needed a good partner," said Leitel. "Anna and I have a true power-sharing experience; she does things that I can’t, and I do things she can't, so it just works. It was a leap of faith for us, but I knew what I was getting into. When you take over an existing restaurant, you take over their clientele, and, more importantly, their memories. So, the challenge was how to honor that while also forging a new path for us."
Left: Anna Weisenburger Co-owner and Operator, Rustica Eatery & Tavern
Right: Micah Leitel Co-owner and Executive Chef, Rustica Eatery & Tavern
REIMAGINING RUSTICA
Seven successful years later, Anna and Chef Micah seized the opportunity to refresh Rustica's Eatery and Tavern, two neighboring spaces that had started to feel like two completely different businesses. "We liked the warmth of the iron, wood, and stone, but we also wanted it to fit our menu, more the comfort of grandma's house rather than a super fancy restaurant," said Leitel. Working with Fargo's Paige Breidenbach, they focused on preserving the building's rich history while integrating new finishes for a more cohesive dining experience.
Paige Breidenbach, Interior Designer, Project Manager, and Owner of Mosaic Interior Design
Paige is an Interior Designer, Project Manager, and owner of Mosaic Interior Design in Fargo, ND. She graduated from North Dakota State University’s CIDA-Accredited Interior Design Program in 2020. In 2023, she became the owner of Mosaic Interior Design, where she specializes in residential renovations and new construction, accessorizing and furnishings, space planning, project management, and commercial design. For this project, her challenge was coordinating subcontractors to complete work outside of operating hours, so the restaurant could remain open through most of the renovation.
"It's taken us a long time to make any changes," said Weisenburger. "That first year, we just left everything the same. This place was so popular and so well-loved that I didn't want to mess it up. And then, COVID happened, and we completely shifted everything we do. We tried to recover as much of the old Rustica as we could, but it was also an opportunity to make it our own — updated and more minimalistic. It's an older building that felt a little cluttered, so I really wanted it to look clean and new while still preserving Rustica's historic charm."
RUSTICA REFRESH: THE EATERY
"Anna originally wanted a softer speakeasy vibe — approachable yet still making a statement. When I started working with Weyer Companies, they told me about their limewash, and I thought it would be perfect here," explained Breidenbach. "Most of the walls were red, so I needed to tone it down and make it feel cozy yet still have that element of depth and sophistication. As tenants, they were not able to change the flooring, so this was a really nice way to blend everything together, without drastic change.” Another fix that changed the view was the removal of the building's branded window vinyl.
To overhaul the Eatery's red feature wall, Paige kept the original Grain Designs shelf and removed the heavy sliding doors around the kitchen opening. Here, they chose a more minimal wood-framed peel-and-stick tile backdrop, a textural limewash finish, and new wall sconces. "It's still a dramatic focal point, but lighter and more subdued," added Breidenbach.
At the bar, Paige preserved the original floating shelves by Grain Designs and replaced the bar pendants to help shift the focus from the kitchen to the back of the bar. "Everybody wants to look in the kitchen, but it just felt like the two spaces were competing with each other to be the focal point," added Weisenburger.
In the main dining area, textural walls are accented by an elegant collection of small-scale paintings from Fargo artist Dan Jones. On the opposite wall near the bar, Anna and Micah chose a vibrant landscape from Fargo artist Spider Johnk; the only painting that isn't for sale. "Our art collection is always evolving — if you come back in three weeks, we will probably have a whole new collection," explained Weisenburger. To contrast the warm yellow tones of the original brick, Paige used a Sherwin- Williams Urbane Bronze that closely matches the limewash. "People love this limewash finish and say it looks like velvet or suede," said Weisenburger.
RUSTICA REFRESH: THE TAVERN
Next door in Rustica's Tavern and pizza kitchen, all of the walls and columns were limewashed to replicate the Eatery's rich, suede- like aesthetic. The white soffit was painted black to match the rest of the ceiling, and the umbrella tree planter box was refinished. In the pizza kitchen, Paige kept the Grain Designs prep table, worked with Elevate Electric to install new track lighting, and had SOS Carpentry install new wood along the paneling base of the serving counter. "We kept all of the original Grain Designs pieces that the Watsons had made," said Breidenbach. "They're beautiful and built to last, so I wanted to make sure what we did with this space would accentuate those pieces."
Just outside the woodfire oven, the original banquette seating showcases a collaborative art installation of collage work by Kim Jore, with custom graffiti by Chef Micah. Riverzen, Kim's art studio, gallery, and salon, neighbors Rustica on the main floor of the historic building. Reusing the original benches and tables, Paige refreshed the space with new chairs and upgraded the lighting for consistency in color temperature. "Bringing in new chairs made the tables look brand new, and it gave both spaces a much more cohesive look," said Weisenburger. "When we started, the two sides looked very different; people thought these were two different restaurants."
Gracing the Tavern's historic brick are several acrylic and watercolor paintings by Kim, all depicting familiar Moorhead scenery, including a painting of the building and the 1872 Douglas House next door, considered one of Moorhead's oldest houses.
The framed t-shirt came after the Clay County Historical Society's History Harvest, which united memorabilia from Ralph's, once located across the street, and Kirby's, where Rustica is now. "Both of them were infamous dive bars for live music, so when we hosted the History Harvest, people brought in all kinds of stuff for the exhibit," Weisenburger said. "This woman called and said she had a Kirby's t-shirt that she and her late husband had framed. She gifted it to us, as long as we agreed to hang it in the restaurant. People love it — a lot of people who come here used to go to Kirby's, so they really like to see that kind of callback." Never been to a History Harvest? Check out the next one on Wednesday, April 23, from 1–4 PM at the Moorhead Public Library.
"I love that this is so much more our taste now, and it still blends well with what was already here," said Weisenburger. "I just wanted to take what we had and make it better, not completely renovate it into something it is not. This refresh has given me a whole new perspective on the character and experience of Rustica."
A TASTE OF ELEVATED COMFORT
With a modernized aesthetic, Chef Micah’s ode to past and present is in the spotlight, aligning with his interpretation of elevated homestyle, including old-world European-influenced American cuisine and comfort food. "We've tried to keep Rustica as true to itself as it could be, but give it our own spin,” added Leitel. “I consider Eric Watson to be my mentor or teacher, so I want to carry on that tradition."
Heirlooms still served at Rustica include the Burrata Cheese Plate, Medjool Dates, Spanish-Style Meatballs, and French Farmer pizza, which includes bechamel, mushrooms, Brie, spinach, egg, and truffle oil. Alongside old local favorites, Chef Micah has curated a long list of new favorites, from pepper-crusted walleye with caper cream sauce and tomato- basil relish to southern-style buttermilk pie with blueberry sauce and cinnamon creme fraiche. "We still do things the hard way, very high technique, so really well-crafted and well- sourced food," Leitel said.
Another must-try is Rustica's signature pickle plate, serving a variety of house pickles, dill green beans, saffron, cauliflower, pickled onion, and taco shop-style hot carrots; a hot trend that has migrated north from Chef Micah's sister in San Diego. The plate also includes Rustica's house-made berry jam, a fresh biscuit bread, and Peruvian Pearl drop peppers.
Chef Micah keeps his seasonally changing menu fresh by working with several local suppliers, including Fargo's Great Plains Greens, Moorhead's Black Cat Bakery and Prairie Rose Farm, Yellow Rose Organic Eggs from Sebeka, MN, and Mandt Market in Grafton, ND, to name a few. On tap, don't forget to try their exclusive Rustica Red, a popular, easy-drinking Irish Red Ale. This ale was produced by Moorhead's Swing Barrel Brewing Company to complement Rustica's European- American comfort food.
YOUR TABLE IS READY
Reservation or not, all are welcome. Casual diners can walk in and grab a seat in Rustica's Tavern or make a reservation in the more formal Eatery. Rustica can also accommodate large group reservations in the Tavern. Chef Micah refers to Rustica as a 'middle of the road restaurant,' open to all experiences, everything from fine dining to casual happy hours. "Here, it's kind of choose your own adventure, but the menu and service are the same, from the Eatery to the Tavern," added Weisenburger.
NEXT DOOR: MEET ARTIST KIM JORE
After dinner, don't forget to take a walk around the historic Kassenborg Block building, where inspiration is everywhere, from Rustica's walls to the art gallery next door.
In April, Riverzen— Kim Jore's art studio, salon, and gallery—is celebrating its 20th Anniversary. If the doors are open, swing by and say hi.Follow her on Facebook at Riverzen-Kim Jore to find details on her anniversary celebration and her summer 'en plein air' painting classes.
For more information, visit: dinerustica.com.